In a landmark and breathtaking achievement, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani climber to reach all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, opening a new dawn for Pakistani mountaineering. Not only does his feat inscribe his name in the pages of world records but also inspires the heart of high-altitude climbers from the region.
Who is Sirbaz Khan?
Sirbaz Khan, a Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan, high-altitude climber by profession, has tirelessly pushed against probabilities in some of the world’s toughest conditions. Born in 1988, Sirbaz spent his early life in northern Pakistan’s mountainous lands, where naturally he developed a taste for climbing.
His modest start did not stop him from thinking big. Today, all that vision has developed into a gargantuan achievement: Sirbaz Khan is the first Pakistani to climb all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, a feat few in the world can boast of.
Understanding the 8,000ers
The term “8,000ers” refers to the 14 mountains on Earth that rise above 8,000 meters (26,247 feet). These peaks are considered the ultimate challenge in the world of mountaineering due to their extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and life-threatening risks.
Here is a list of the world’s 14 8,000ers:
- Mount Everest – 8,848m
- K2 – 8,611m
- Kangchenjunga – 8,586m
- Lhotse – 8,516m
- Makalu – 8,485m
- Cho Oyu – 8,188m
- Dhaulagiri – 8,167m
- Manaslu – 8,163m
- Nanga Parbat – 8,126m
- Annapurna – 8,091m
- Gasherbrum I – 8,080m
- Broad Peak – 8,051m
- Gasherbrum II – 8,035m
- Shishapangma – 8,027m
Sirbaz Khan has now summited each of these — without the use of supplementary oxygen — a feat that sets him apart from most climbers globally.
Why Is This Achievement So Important?
Sirbaz Khan Becomes First Pakistani to Summit All 8,000ers Sans Supplementary Oxygen: Why It Matters
Ascending 8,000-meter peaks is a challenge to human endurance in itself. Climbing them without the aid of oxygen increases the challenge to a whole new level. The air is thin at these elevations, and any climber exposed to it may suffer from altitude sickness, poor decision-making, and death. Only a few top climbers on the planet have successfully climbed all 14 of these peaks without oxygen tanks.
By doing so, Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to climb all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, joining a select international club of top mountaineers.
A Timeline of His Ascents
Here’s a brief look at Sirbaz Khan’s climbing journey:
- 2017 – Nanga Parbat (8,126m)
- 2018 – K2 (8,611m)
- 2019 – Lhotse (8,516m) and Broad Peak (8,051m)
- 2021 – Mount Everest (8,848m), Gasherbrum II (8,035m), and Dhaulagiri (8,167m)
- 2022 – Annapurna (8,091m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), and Makalu (8,485m)
- 2023 – Cho Oyu (8,188m), Manaslu (8,163m)
- 2024 – Gasherbrum I (8,080m)
- 2025 – Shishapangma (8,027m) – his final climb to complete all 14
Each of these climbs pushed Sirbaz to his limits, yet he persevered — all without supplementary oxygen.
The Mental and Physical Cost
Climbing an 8,000-meter mountain is not simply about power; it’s mind. When Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to climb all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, it’s as much a credit to his mental strength as his physical abilities.
Most climbers retreat because the hazard is greater than the benefit. Sirbaz persisted — again and again — usually on his own and in inclement cold, with nothing but his resolve and planning to fall back on.
Support and Sponsorship
Climbing is a costly business, particularly at the 8,000-meter altitude. Sirbaz has enjoyed the help of indigenous bodies, international patrons, and the Pakistani government, who all saw the potential in his aspirations.
His latest expeditions are funded by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and sponsorship from top brands assisted with logistics and gear.
Global Recognition for a National Hero
With this feat, Sirbaz Khan is the first Pakistani to have climbed all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, he’s won praise from all over the world. Global mountaineering circles have hailed his achievement. https://www.dawn.com/news/1911790
Interestingly, the International Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) congratulated him on social media, and famous mountaineers like Reinhold Messner have hailed his methodology and discipline.
A Role Model for the Youth
Sirbaz is not only climbing mountains — he’s laying bridges for the young ones. He plans to inspire young Pakistanis to dream big and break barriers through public speaking, youth mentorship, and educational campaigns.
Having Sirbaz Khan now become the first Pakistani to climb all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, his tale is also now part of national textbooks and appears in documentaries.
What It Means for Pakistan’s Mountaineering Future
Pakistan boasts five of the 14 8,000ers worldwide, but numerous indigenous climbers are short of foreign exposure. Sirbaz’s accomplishment puts the spotlight on Pakistan’s mountaineering prowess worldwide.
This achievement is likely to generate greater funds, training initiatives, and tourism in Pakistan’s climbing business.
Behind the Scenes: Risks and Challenges
Climbers are frequently exposed to frostbite, avalanches, crevasses, and surprise storms. Sirbaz went through all these and a lot more. In 2022, he survived a killer avalanche on Makalu. On Gasherbrum I, he self-rescued after a team member became ill from altitude sickness.
In spite of all these risks, Sirbaz Khan is the first Pakistani to have climbed all the 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, showing how courage and prudence can go hand in hand.
Sirbaz’s Message to the World
After successful completion of his last climb, Sirbaz shared on social media:
“This is not my victory. It’s for Pakistan, for every dreamer who dares to challenge the impossible.”
His message strikes worldwide, making it understandable why Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to reach all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen is more than a news headline — it’s a legacy.
What’s Next for Sirbaz Khan?
While he has accomplished this giant feat, Sirbaz isn’t finished. He will:
- Train the next generation of Pakistani climbers.
- Write a book about his experience.
- Promote eco-friendly climbing in the Himalayas and Karakoram ranges.
- He has already laid out a documentary project called “Beyond the Oxygen Line.”
Conclusion: Sirbaz Khan Becomes First Pakistani to Summit All 8,000ers Without Supplementary Oxygen — A Legacy Cemented
In short, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen, securing his place as a mountaineering legend. His life is one of determination, bravery, and unwavering passion. As a metaphor for Pakistani resolve and brilliance, Sirbaz’s tale shall ring throughout generations.
